A pleasant summer evening in Dublin, we stroll through Temple Bar and cross the iconic Ha'penny Bridge. It spans the Liffey River which fluctuates with the tidal flow of the Irish Sea.
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The sky-blue Air Coach 700 whisks us from the airport into the heart of Dublin. First impression is of a city that hugs the ground (most buildings are only a few stories tall); it presents a little grubby and work-a-day, but exudes a worn charm none-the-less.
First order of business is to stay awake and get on local time. After settling into our room, we strike out on foot in search of an early dinner. An open table in the enclosed patio of Dublin's iconic Davy Byrnes (just shy of Grafton Street) beckons, providing the perfect spot to people watch and take in the local scene. After a simple pub dinner (and first draught of Guinness), exploration continues as we get the "lay of the land": Grafton Street, down to the River Liffey, crossing the O'Connell Street Bridge, passing through Trinity College and finally, a turn about St. Stephen's Green. Fatigue finally gets the better of us and it's back to Buswells. By 8:30 we fall into bed so happy to be here. |
Davy Byrnes is a cafe featured in several works of Irish Literature, including James Joyce's Ulysses. You can hear our guide, Joe Darcy, talk more about this iconic literary site and the re-creation of Bloomsday Celebrations in Dublin on Travel with Rick Steves Program 567.
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Serious business. Neil prepares for his first pint of Guinness!
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MAY THE ROAD RISE UP TO MEET YOU
KNACKERED OUT | Buswells Hotel (four nights) - gracious welcome & perfectly situated in the heart of Dublin. Directly across from the Archaeological Museum, a long block from St. Stephen's Green and not terribly far from Grafton Street to the west and Trinity College and River Liffey to the north. TUCK IN
CRACK ON
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A gorgeous 360 of the Hill of Tara on a warm summer's day.
On a clear day, you can see a quarter of Ireland from up here! |
Pre-Tour Excursions outside Dublin.
Dowth (rhymes with "south"), Newgrange, Hill of Tara
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GUINNESS BRAISED
BEEF SHORT RIBS Original recipe by Guinness, adapted by Kristi. Enough for an 8-10 person dinner party. 12, 2-3" bone-in beef short ribs (5 pounds) 32 ounces Tomato Juice 3 cans Guinness Draught 2 cups Beef Stock 4 Carrots, diced 6 Ribs Celery, diced 3 Yellow Onions, chopped 4 sprigs fresh Thyme Oil for browning meat Flat-leaf parsley for garnish Preheat oven to 300 degrees F. Season short ribs generously with salt and pepper. Coat heavy pot with oil and pan-sear short ribs in batches. When meat is seared to an amber-brown color, transfer to a roasting pan. In the same pan, sauté carrots, celery and onion until soft and beginning to brown (10 minutes). Add to roasting pan. Add Guinness to pan and de-glaze over medium heat. Pour this liquid over the short-ribs in the roasting pan. Add tomato juice, beef stock and thyme. Cover tightly with lid or foil and braise in preheated oven for 3 hours. Remove short ribs from roasting pan and transfer to a pot. Strain liquid and put about half into a saucepan. Skim fat. Simmer over medium-high until reduced to create a sauce. Pour over short-ribs and serve. Garnish with a razzle-dazzle of parsley. |
The sound of rushing water fills the space as the
Guinness Storehouse Tour brings the making of a "Pint o Plain" to life. FUN FACT: Both Ireland and Guinness claim the Harp as their logo.
Upon careful inspection, you'll notice that the Guinness harp faces the opposite direction from the Irish Euro. Copyright in action!
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Pre-Tour Excursions in Dublin & Tour Day 1.
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THE WORKMAN'S FRIEND by Flann O'Brien (Brian O'Nolan) When things go wrong and will not come right, Though you do the best you can, When life looks black as the hour of night - A pint of plain is your only man. When money's tight and hard to get And your horse has also ran, When all you have is a heap of debt - A pint of plain is your only man. When health is bad and your heart feels strange, And your face is pale and wan, When doctors say you need a change - A pint of plain is your only man. When food is scarce and your larder bare And no rashers grease your pan, When hunger grows as your meals are rare - A pint of plain is your only man. In time of trouble and lousey strife, You have still got a darlint plan You still can turn to a brighter life - A pint of plain is your only man. |
Tour Day 2. The Historic Heart of Dublin |
PHRASE OF THE DAY Each day on the tour, Joe taught us an Irish "Phrase of the Day". The first one? Literally "Word of the the Day". The Irish word for "Word" is focal - and, in true Irish style, there is a school days folk song called the "Aon Focal Eile ". The lyrics are benign, but it sounds cheekishly naughty. Joe sang it for us with a twinkle in his eye.
focal an lae | The Word of the Day |
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MEET ALLEN
The man who can drive a 50 seat coach like it's a sports car! Trust us on this: one of the major perks of choosing a Rick Steves Tour is BUS TIME. First, there is room to breath as 24-28 person tour groups can spread out amongst a full-size, bathroom and WiFi equipped coach. Second, the drivers are just as awesome and engaging as our guides! Allen has been driving Rick Steves Tours in Ireland for YEARS, and he quickly became one of the gang. We enjoyed hearing his perspective on many things. And, might I say, it takes a wee bit of talent to navigate a behemoth coach on Ireland's teeny tiny roads? Third, the scenery in Ireland is da** incredible. It's veritable eye candy and one never gets tired of gazing out the window. Fourth, Joe sings songs, tells stories, plays cultural music (Neil loved the U2 day), passes out tasty treats, points out interesting things about the landscape, teaches the history, contextualizes and prepares you for what you're getting ready to see and experience. And, of course, there is always time for naps 😊! |
A dynamic duo: Tour Guide Joe and Drive-the-Bus-Like-a-Boss Allen.
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Tour Day 3. Kilmainham Gaol and Ruins |
PHRASE OF THE DAY | The literal translation of this everyday greeting is the blessing, "May God be with You."
dia duit | hello |
A sober cross stands in the courtyard of Kilmainham Gaol the site where Joseph Plunkett and other rebels were executed in 1916. Much to the chagrin of the English, the executions did nothing to quell the ire of the Irish, but instead fanned the flames of discord into full blown revolution!
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28 year old Joseph Plunkett was an Irish nationalist, poet, journalist, revolutionary and a leader of the 1916 Easter Rising. Seven hours before his execution by firing squad, Joseph was permitted to marry his sweetheart Grace Gifford in the chapel in Kilmainham Gaol.
Joe sang the following song to us on the bus after our visit to Kilmainham. They lyrics are haunting. Click here to see it performed by Rod Stewart. GRACE |