TRAINER'S TRAVELS | RICK STEVES BEST OF IRELAND IN 14 DAYS
  • FAILTE
  • DUBLIN
  • KINSALE
  • DINGLE
  • GALWAY
  • WESTPORT
  • PORTRUSH
  • BELFAST
  • THE CRAIC
Belfast is a city with a complicated history, which truth-be-told, left us with more questions than it answered. One of many political murals in the sectarian Falls Road (Catholic) neighborhood.

MAY THE ROAD RISE UP TO MEET YOU

KNACKERED OUT | Europa Hotel, Belfast (one night). On the "Golden Mile" was once the most bombed hotel in Europe! 

TUCK IN 
  • James St. & Co.
  • Crown Bar and Liquor Saloon (built in 1849 and part of the National Trust) Karen bought me my first G&T here!
  • Bobbin Social Enterprise Cafe - inside Belfast City Hall and utterly delightful. (Voted best sausage roll in Belfast!)

​CRACK ON
  • Titanic Belfast Experience
  • Belfast City Hall
  • ​Sectarian Neighborhoods Bus Tour: Falls Road (Catholic) & Shankill Road and Sandy Row (Protestant)
​

MEET DALE AND TRESE
Soybean farmers from Iowa, Dale and Trese met Todd and Karen last year on a Rick Steves' Italy Tour. The couples hit it off, enjoying each other's company so much they booked this Ireland trip together. Dale and Trese have been on 9 and 10 Rick Steves Tours respectively.

Our favorite thing about the Rick Steves Ireland Tour . . . meeting the people of Ireland in the pubs!

1) In a Dublin pub we met a man from Northern Ireland who also farmed, like Dale. He told us how the "Troubles" effected his family, the way he farms and his fears if Brexit happens to the borders.

2) In a little village pub, we met two elderly men sipping beer and whiskey. One cried out, “Americans! Anyone from Ohio?” I brought Robin and Ellyn (fellow tour members) to him for a talk about Ohio.

3) In the Crown Bar in Belfast, Todd, Karen, Dale and I were allowed to join a young couple in one of the booths with a door (Joe called it a confessional). The man was from Wales, and the woman was from Belfast. They’d met on an online dating site and it was their first face-face date. I sat by the man and he confessed (Joe was right), that he was relieved we joined him as he was really nervous and didn’t know what to say to her. Into our second drink, the door opened and Ellyn and Robin joined us, and a few minutes later Margaret came in too. The woman took our picture, but we forgot to exchange contact information. Serendipity occurred the next day at the bus stop when the couple walked up to us. Karen exchanged contact information and was sent our group picture.

Our #1 Best Travel Tip . . . Hang out in the pubs and meet the locals. (Though it probably sounds better to just say: be sure to talk with the locals!​)
Picture
Trese and Dale's favorite photo: the one taken in Belfast's Crown Bar by the first-date couple. Dale, Todd, Karen, (Trese in front), Ellyn, Margaret and Robin.

Our last night in Belfast, nightcaps at the Crown Bar
​and a rousing round of Molly Malone led by Joe.

Tour Day 13. Belfast and
​the Titanic


​PHRASE OF THE DAY |
the saddest phrase we learned.

slán leat | good-bye

The legend of
​Ray O'Neil

Joe, our guide, was absolutely wonderful. His knowledge of Ireland's history, fauna, flora, music, culture and of each town we visited was remarkable. It must be a real challenge for tour guides who meet hundreds of people a season to keep names and details straight all of the time.

The first time Joe switched Ray and Neil we all let it pass. The second time, we raised our eyebrows. The third time, we couldn't let it go . . . and for the rest of the tour these two gentlemen adopted the interchangeable Irish moniker of "Ray O'Neil".

This inspired two of the winning limericks in Joe's Limerick contest . . .
Picture
Brothers from another mother: Neil and Ray! (Picture taken as some of our tour group takes an after-dinner stroll to the Westport House.)
Winning Limerick by Tour Member David

There once was a Ray or a Neil
Joe was confused on the deal
From the land of the fairy 
To the town of North Derry
He called them both Raymond O'Neil

Winning Limerick by Neil

A name can be a big deal
Called wrong affects how you feel
But he's my brother
From another mother
Together we're Ray O'Neil

Tour Day 14. Tour Ends and
​Final Night in Howth (rhymes with growth)


KING SITRIC'S IRISH SODA BREAD
​

The King Sitric Fish Restaurant in Howth was awarded the Georgina Campbell 2020 Seafood Restaurant of the year. The bread served with dinner and breakfast was pure Irish magic. To our delight, the chef shared the recipe.

550 g (1 1/4 pounds) wholemeal flour, preferable Abbey Stoneground or roughest you can find
100 g (4 ounces) white flour
1 generous teaspoon baking soda
1 generous teaspoon of salt
2 teaspoons sugar
2 1/2 cups buttermilk
2 tablespoons butter, melted

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F (220 degrees C). Preheat a stoneware loaf pan, or casserole with lid in the oven. Mix flours, baking soda, salt and sugar in large bowl. Add the buttermilk and mix thoroughly to make a very wet mixture. Mix in the melted butter and turn dough into the hot pan. Cover tightly with foil or lid, and bake in the hot oven for an hour. Remove the foil/lid for the last 10 minutes to allow the top to brown. Remove from oven and turn the loaf out onto a rack; wrap in a damp tea towel and leave to cool.
Picture
Literally our last moments in Ireland - a 7am breakfast at the King Sitric Accommodation in Howth. Brown Soda Bread graced the table at most meals we ate in Ireland . . . and while it was all good, the slices served at the King Sitric were superb! Neil is particularly enthused by the prospect of French Press coffee!

THE CRAIC!
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  • FAILTE
  • DUBLIN
  • KINSALE
  • DINGLE
  • GALWAY
  • WESTPORT
  • PORTRUSH
  • BELFAST
  • THE CRAIC